Winter Indoor Air Issues, Winter Vacation Travel & Homeowner's Insurance Coverage

Day Four of Winter Hazard Awareness Week

• Carbon Monoxide Safety
• Radon Safety
• Asbestos Safety
• Mold Safety
• Winter Vacation Travel
• Homeowner's Insurance Coverage Of Winter Weather Damage

Carbon Monoxide Safety

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a gas you can’t see, taste or smell. CO results from the incomplete burning of natural gas, oil, wood, kerosene, charcoal and other fuels, under conditions where there isn't enough oxygen present. CO can accumulate inside the home from a variety of sources: furnaces and water heaters, gas or kerosene space heaters, boilers, gas ranges and ovens, gas dryers, charcoal or gas grills, fireplaces and wood stoves, vehicles, yard equipment with gasoline-powered engines.

Exposure to low levels of CO can cause flu-like symptoms, such as headaches, nausea, dizziness, drowsiness, weakness and shortness of breath. Higher levels can result in unconsciousness or death. People most vulnerable to the effects of CO include pregnant women, the elderly, small children, people with lung problems or other chronic health conditions, and people engaging in strenuous physical activity.

CO is most likely to accumulate inside homes during the winter months -- when the heating system is in use, and the home has been sealed and insulated against the cold.

• Make sure your heating system and all fuel burning appliances are adequately vented and properly maintained.
• Make sure your furnace has an adequate air intake.
• Provide adequate ventilation when using fireplaces, wood stoves, or space heaters.
• Don't use gasoline engines or burn charcoal in enclosed spaces.
• Don't use gas stoves or ovens to heat living areas.
• Rely on a qualified technician to install furnaces and other fuel-burning appliances.
• Do a furnace check and check all fuel-burning appliances in the fall.

Install a UL-listed carbon monoxide alarm, which will sound when potentially dangerous levels of CO are present. All homes should have both a CO alarm and a smoke detector. A smoke detector does not sound when CO is present. CO alarms and smoke detectors can be purchased at discount stores, hardware stores, and building supply stores.

For more information, contact the Minnesota Department of Health (651-215-0909 or www.health.state.mn.us).

Radon Safety

Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas, produced by the decay of uranium and radium in the soil. Radon has no color, taste or odor. Radon can enter your home from the surrounding soil and accumulate in living areas especially during the winter months, when homes are sealed and insulated against the cold. Radon typically accumulates in basements and other areas that are in direct contact with the soil.

Exposure to radon over an extended period of time can increase your long-term risk of developing lung cancer. Radon is the second-leading cause of lung cancer deaths nationwide. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has estimated that 14,000 people a year die of lung cancer caused by radon.

Because radon is primarily a long-term health risk, the primary concern is with average, year-round exposure to radon. Radon levels are measured in picocuries per liter of air (pCi/L). If the average, year-round radon level in your home exceeds the EPA guideline of 4 pCi/L, the Minnesota Department of Health (MDH) recommends that steps be taken to reduce your potential radon exposure.

Testing done in Minnesota suggests that roughly one out of every three homes may exceed the EPA guideline for radon. MDH recommends that all homes be tested for radon. The first step in protecting yourself against radon is to have your home tested. There are testing devices available that provide quick test results. However, because radon is primarily a long-term health concern, MDH recommends using a testing device that can take average readings over a longer period of time. The testing device used most often by homeowners is an alpha track detector. Follow the directions that come with the test kit, and leave it in place for at least three months up to a full year if possible.

If your home does exceed the EPA guideline, the problem can be corrected. In some cases, radon levels can be lowered by simply improving ventilation and sealing the cracks and openings where radon enters the home. You can also reduce your exposure by limiting the time you spend in areas like basements, where radon tends to accumulate. More detailed information about reducing radon levels in your home is available from MDH and the Minnesota Safety Council.

For more information, contact the Minnesota Department of Health (651-215-0909 or www.health.state.mn.us).

Asbestos Safety

As the winter months arrive, and people begin spending more time indoors, indoor air quality assumes increasing importance as a potential health concern. One potential health hazard associated with indoor air quality is the release of asbestos fibers during home renovation or remodeling activity.

Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral fiber. It has been used in literally thousands of different building materials and consumer products. Prior to the mid-1980s, asbestos-containing material (ACM) was widely used for home construction and remodeling. According to the federal Bureau of the Census, raw asbestos and ACM are still being imported into the U.S. When ACM is disturbed during remodeling or other activity, tiny fibers can be released to the surrounding air. If they are inhaled, they can become trapped in lung tissue.

Asbestos can cause asbestosis, lung cancer - and another form of cancer called mesothelioma, which affects the lining around the lung - and it can take up to 30 years for the cancer to develop. There is no known “safe” level of asbestos exposure, so it’s important to protect yourself and your family during any demolition and remodeling activities in your home.

Identifying materials that contain asbestos is the first step in protecting yourself. Unless you have product label information available, there isn’t really any way to tell whether a particular product or material contains asbestos. If you don’t have that information, you’ll need to take a sample of the material and send it to a lab. To find a lab, look under “Asbestos, Consulting and Testing” in the Yellow Pages.

Asbestos is only a hazard if the ACM is damaged or disturbed, and the fibers are released into the air. In some cases, the best course is to repair or encapsulate the damaged material, using paint or other appropriate materials. Check with a hardware or safety supply store to find out which materials can be used to encapsulate ACM. If homeowners plan to remove asbestos from owner-occupied, single family homes, they can legally do the work themselves. However, only state-licensed contractors can be hired to remove or encapsulate asbestos. These contractors make use of techniques and engineering procedures that are not available to the homeowner. They also test the air for fibers while the work is in progress, and they test the work area after the project is done.

The state only regulates projects in single or multi-family homes if they involve more than 10 linear feet, six square feet, or one cubic foot of asbestos-containing materials. State law covers removal or encapsulation of materials like wallboard and spackle; insulation on heating pipes, water pipes or furnace ducts; and insulation on furnaces and water heaters. Flooring, roofing, siding and ceiling materials are exempt if the project involves a home with four or fewer dwelling units - but the Minnesota Department of Health urges caution in handing these materials.

For more information, contact the Minnesota Department of Health (651-215-0900 or www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/asbestos/index.html).

Mold Safety

Molds are simple, microscopic fungi, found nearly everywhere. They spread and multiply by releasing tiny living cells called spores into the air. If enough spores are in the air inside your home, they can contribute to asthma, allergies, and other health problems. Untreated mold growth can also cause structural problems in your home and damage goods and furnishings. In order to grow, mold needs a source of nutrition (such as dust, wood products or paper), a place to grow, and a source of moisture. Your home may be at risk if you have had flooding, a backed-up sewer, a leaky roof, ice dams, high indoor humidity and condensation problems, a damp basement, or ongoing plumbing leaks.

The most common symptoms of exposure to mold can include nasal and sinus congestion, coughing, wheezing, and other respiratory problems. It is difficult to determine who may experience health effects associated with mold exposure, but mold exposure is a special concern for children, the elderly, people with HIV infection or other immune system problems, pregnant women, and people with allergies and asthma. People should consult a medical professional if they are having health problems that they believe are related to mold.

Be prepared to recognize mold if it appears in your home. Look for discolored areas on walls or other surfaces, in a range of possible colors - including white, orange, green, brown or black. Look for signs like window condensation, cracking plaster, loosening tape, warped wood or a musty odor. Remember this basic rule: “If you can see it or smell it, get rid of it.” Be alert for possible symptoms of mold exposure, and always be suspicious of water-damaged areas and discoloration. Be aware that mold can grow in “hidden” areas – under cabinets, inside walls, and under carpets and carpet padding or any wall coverings.

Some individuals may experience health effects when exposed to mold. Any time you find mold in your home, you should take steps to clean it up. The clean-up process can dramatically increase the number of mold spores in the air.

Take steps to protect your health during cleanup. Consider using an N95 particulate respirator, and wear clothing that can be laundered or discarded afterward. Use rubber gloves and wear eye goggles. Begin your cleanup by identifying and eliminating all leaks or other sources of moisture that may be contributing to the mold problem. Remove and discard any porous materials that may have soaked up the water – including ceiling tiles, drywall, plaster, insulation, carpet and carpet padding, and processed wood products (paneling, plywood, composition board, etc.). You do not need to discard studs, joists, rafters or other structural components made of solid lumber.

Clean all moldy surfaces with a soap or detergent in hot water, or a good commercial cleaner. Scrub surfaces with a stiff brush, using plenty of cleaning solution, and then rinse. Use a wet-dry-vacuum to take up the rinse water. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves, and make sure the work area is well ventilated.

Disinfect affected surfaces (if desired) after cleaning has removed all visible mold and other soiling from contaminated surfaces, a disinfectant may be used to kill mold missed by the cleaning. In the case of sewage contamination, disinfection must be performed – contact the Minnesota Department of Health for appropriate advice. Mix ¼ to ½ cup bleach per gallon of water and apply to surfaces where mold growth was visible before cleaning. Never mix bleach with ammonia – the resulting fumes are toxic. If the mold grows back, repeat the cleaning procedure again using a stronger solution – two gallons of bleach in five gallons of water. A handheld garden sprayer or mist bottle may be used to apply the solution; be sure to wet all studs, wall cavities and floor areas thoroughly. Avoid excessive run-off, using a wet-dry vacuum to collect the extra bleach solution. Allow the bleach solution to dry on its own completely. Do not make any attempt to remove the bleach solution or speed up the drying process during this time – it’s important to leave the solution in contact with surfaces for 6-8 hours.

Following disinfection, dry out affected areas as quickly as possible, using fans and dehumidifiers. Be patient – allow six weeks or more for drying, before installing new building materials (carpet, paint, drywall, etc.). Be sure that spaces inside walls are thoroughly dry. If you’ve had a mold problem in the past, be extra vigilant. If you have had an especially severe mold problem, it may come back – and you may need to repeat the clean-up process.

For more information, contact the Minnesota Department of Health (651-215-0909 or www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/indoorair/mold/).

Winter Vacation Travel

If you’re planning a warm weather get-away for the winter months, you may need to take steps to protect your health – especially if you plan to visit a foreign country.

What you need to do will depend on where you plan to go, what activities you will participate in, your individual health status, any special factors that may affect your risk of exposure to illness, and legal requirements for entering your destination country.

You’ll want to get any specific immunizations that may be required or recommended for people traveling to the places you plan to visit. You should also ask your physician for advice on how to avoid contaminated food and water – so you can prevent “traveler’s diarrhea” – and what you can do to treat this illness if you do get it.

A new vaccine is also now available to protect travelers from hepatitis A – a common food-borne illness. You should also get information on how to prevent diseases that are carried by insects, like malaria and yellow fever. Your physician may also be able to provide advice about medications you’ll need for your trip. Regardless of where you’re going, you’ll want to make sure you have all your basic immunizations:

• routine childhood immunizations for younger travelers
• a tetanus/diphtheria (Td) booster if you’re traveling to a country where the risk for diphtheria is high and you have not been vaccinated in the previous 10 years
• two doses of measles/mumps rubella vaccine for everyone born after 1957
• a dose of this year’s flu vaccine for people over 65, people with heart disease, lung disease, diabetes, or other chronic health problems, persons traveling with a large organized tourist group, and others who may simply want to avoid getting the flu
• a single dose of pneumococcal pneumonia vaccine – to protect against a common complication of the flu – for people over 65 and people with chronic health problems

To ensure a safe, healthy trip abroad, plan ahead. Contact your doctor or clinic as soon as you know where you’ll be going, and when. You may not be able to get an appointment right away and end up being sent to an international travel health clinic to get the specialized immunizations that you need for your travel destination. Some immunizations may require several clinic visits, and may need to be given well in advance of your departure. Hepatitis A vaccine, for example, must be given at least four weeks before you begin a trip. You’ll need a booster six months later, in order to provide long-term protection.

For more information, contact the Traveler Resource Line at the Minnesota Department of Health (612-676-5533 or www.health.state.mn.us/immunize).

Homeowner's Insurance Coverage of Winter Weather Damage

Homeowner's insurance coverage differs from policy to policy and from company to company. However, there are some coverages that most companies sell. It is important for you to understand what is covered under the policy you currently own before your house suffers winter damage and you file an insurance claim.

Most insurers offer more than one level of coverage. Policies that are considered “standard” or “fire-only” will not cover as many types of damage as an “all-risk” policy. Most of what is described below is covered by an all-risk policy. If you are not sure what type of policy you have and what it covers, call your agent for an explanation.

Ice Dam

An ice dam must cause damage for coverage to kick in. Therefore, few companies pay for ice dam removal. However, interior or exterior damage caused by an ice dam on your roof usually is covered.

How to Deal with an ice dam

• Use a snow rake from the ground to pull off the snow above the dam.
• Avoid climbing onto your roof unless it’s flat.
• If you see interior damage, report it immediately to your agent and take steps to halt the damage. If you don’t act quickly, you may negate your coverage.
• Wait to start permanent repairs until after the adjuster sees the damage.
• If you cannot deal with the dam yourself, pay a roofer to remove it.

Flat roofs

• You know you’ve got too much weight on your roof if your interior doors start to stick.
• You may be able to safely remove snow on a flat roof to prevent collapse because it’s easier to stand on.
• The roofs of most homes built after WWII probably can withstand typical Minnesota snow loads. Older, pre-WWII homes – even ones with steep roofs – may need snow removal to prevent collapse.
• Snow removal is not covered, but roof collapse is.

Be careful entering your garage!

Claims sometimes are filed by homeowners whose driveways are so slippery they cannot stop their vehicle before the garage door opens. This is especially frustrating because, as the owner of the auto and the home, you must pay deductibles on both policies.

Snow Removal

Homeowner’s insurance does not cover injuries sustained by the homeowner during snow removal. However, health insurance does pay for treatment of the injuries. Professionals should be covered under their own liability or workers’ compensation policies. Like ice dams, snow and ice removal usually are not covered. Accumulation of snow and extreme cold are acts of God, but not considered damage per se. Damage caused by snow and cold is covered. Damage to your yard and driveway is not covered.

Frozen Pipes

Not all companies pay to have frozen pipes thawed by professionals. Most policies cover pipe replacement and water damage. The coverage may not apply if you turned the furnace off for the winter without winterizing the house and its contents.

Interruption of Services

If you lose power during a storm, an all-risk homeowners policy usually pays for spoiled food or to repair damage caused by the loss of power and appliances damaged by the outage. Many policies also will pay for shelter when you lose power for extended periods during the winter. If you lose heat and walk away from the house without taking steps to prevent the pipes from freezing, your policy may not cover the ensuing damage.

Condensation

Some homes suffer interior damage from the freezing and thawing of condensation caused by lack of insulation and poor venting in the attic. Some policies may not cover damage caused by condensation. Make sure your attic is adequately vented and insulated.

Renters

The landlord’s insurance will pay for winter weather damage to the building, including the walls, ceilings, and plumbing in your apartment. It will not pay for damage to your personal belongings. For the tenant’s possessions to be covered, the tenant must have renter’s insurance.

Commercial Coverage

Commercial property insurance varies dramatically from policy to policy. Check with your agent to find out what coverages you have before damage occurs. The roofs of farm buildings sometimes collapse under the weight of snow. If the building is very old, your agent may have advised against covering it because the insurance would cost more than the building is worth. It is better to store expensive equipment in insured rather than uninsured buildings. Livestock are covered if the farmer adds a livestock endorsement to his farm policy.

Flood Insurance

Though many residents of plains states do not consider their property to be susceptible to flooding, they frequently are victims of floods. Flooding can occur at any time of year-during a January thaw or in early spring when snow melt and heavy rains occur simultaneously. Because flood insurance goes into effect 30 days after it is purchased, it is wise to consider buying the coverage before it is needed. Many people mistakenly believe that they must live in a designated flood plain to be eligible to buy flood insurance. But, the only requirement to be eligible to buy flood insurance is that the municipality in which they live must participate in the National Flood Insurance Program.

To find out which communities participate, call the National Flood Insurance Program at 1-888-CALL-FLOOD. Also, any insurance agent can provide information about the cost and availability of flood insurance for Minnesota residents.

How to Get the Most Out of Your Homeowner's Insurance

• Read your policy and become familiar with your coverage.
• If you don’t understand the policy, ask your agent to explain it.
• Take steps to prevent winter weather damage to your house.
• If you experience damage,
  • Call your agent right away.
  • Take steps to prevent further damage (save receipts for expenses incurred in attempting to prevent further damage-your insurer may reimburse you).
  • Don’t start repairs until the adjuster sees the damage.
• Winterizing means draining the plumbing and removing anything from the house that could be damaged by sub-freezing temperatures. To drain the plumbing, cut off the water supply and open the highest and the lowest faucets in the building. Gravity will drain most of the system.
  • Remove all plants, pets, collectibles, appliances, and equipment that would be damaged or injured in extreme cold.
  • Winterize your house if you plan to be absent for an extended period during the winter.
  • If you take a winter vacation, ask someone to check on the house while you’re gone.
  • You should also winterize if the heat goes off and you cannot restore it. If you lose heat and walk away from the house without taking steps to prevent the pipes from freezing, your policy may not cover damage caused by frozen pipes.
  • You should always shut off water to outside spigots and sprinkler systems and drain them in the fall.
  • If your furnace or boiler has electronic ignition, a loss of electric power might turn it off. Learn how to re-start it with a 12-volt battery.
  • Note: heating systems work hard in the winter, increasing the chances for failure. Have a professional check your furnace in the fall to repair or replace faulty parts.

For more information, contact the Insurance Help Line (800-642-6121).

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